shu loves you

In the winter, I tend to wear more makeup. This is just an unfortunate fact of life; pasty and dry, I  lay on the bronzer, eye makeup, blush, gloss, pretty much anything that will make me look as rosy and fresh as possible. In the last few weeks however, I have noticed, despite my vigilant retinol regimen, more dark/fragile skin around my eyes than normal. My incredible powers of deduction have led me to the source of this issue. Long hours of work and late bedtimes cause me to get lazy with removing my makeup. Ladies, we do ourselves a great disservice every time we scrub our eyes with moisturizer dabbed onto toilet paper, makeup remover wipes that have long dried in their casing, or the worst, the Savon de Marseille next to the sink meant for hands only. Luckily, whining about my predicament to the all-knowing Anbon of Barney’s has completely solved my problem. This is a new must-have: Shu Uemura’s Cleansing Beauty Oil.

I know using oil to clean your face sounds counterproductive, but hear me out. You need oil to break down the oil in makeup. In the first step of using this product, you apply a few pumps to your face in gentle circular motions. You don’t need to rub at all in order to lift the makeup – even waterproof makeup. You then wet your hands and start gently massaging water on top of the oil; this causes the oil to emulsify into a gentle foam which, when completely rinsed, leaves your face *sparkling* clean and not feeling oily in the least. This must be tried to be believed and the helpful salesperson at Barney’s NY was a doll in demonstrating on her hand, to which she had just applied a number of waterproof eyeshadows. The bottle to the left is 150 ml and $35. The salesperson recommended that I try the 450 ml bottle 450 ml bottle; at $70, it’s twice the cash for three times the amount. I’m glad I did, since using this product is exactly what I needed. I wake up in the morning without a trace of makeup on my face, whereas before I always had stubborn and unfortunate black residue around my eyes from mascara and eyeliner. Moreover, using this beauty oil makes washing my face a pleasure rather than a chore. The soothing watermelon, jasmine, and sandalwood scent is another added bonus.

There are a number of different types of beauty oil for different kinds of skin but the Premium A/O formula is the most popular because of its anti-aging benefits for normal or combination skin. Get yourselves to the nearest Barney’s, Bloomingdale’s, or Sephora to try it out. In the immortal words of Bigtime Benson: Run to Buy.

lace in the face

Dior‘s Spring 2010 may have you running to Bloomingdale’s to get your fix but Eric Traore has figured out a much better way to do it. Chanel needs to up the ante with their faux tattoos. These are making me wish for warmer weather and Marie Antoinette-style castle parties. Speaking of the Dauphine, I am feeling her inspiration in many aspects — that hair, the French-as-a-third-language thing, shoes, that Adam and the Ants song I can’t get out of my head, and now makeup. Hopefully I won’t find myself with my head on the proverbial chopping block at any point this year.

chanel: rouge coco

Get it… it’s “time” to start using lipstick again! Get it?! Kidding aside, I am super excited about the new Rouge Coco Hydrating Creme Lip Color, launching in March. For a long time I have just-said-no to lip gloss, after being a total addict for most of my formative product years. I saved endless dollars by coming to terms with the fact that although I loved the pretty colors, the lipgloss was always too sticky, would wear off too quickly, or just didn’t look good on my lips. I am a converted lipstick fan, considering it much more ladylike and infinitely sexier than gloss.

Most of the shades are in nude and pink, which is right up my alley, and the lipsticks are each named after different times in Coco’s life, like Mademoiselle, a pale pink, Camelia, a deep rose, and Paris, a bright red. Each of 30 shades is $30. I am trying to get my hands on an advance stick – I will let you all know if I have any luck! I need a worthy challenger to my Shiseido.

cat-eyes for dummies

The most comprehensive article about how to get the perfect cat-eye (from Glamour) I’ve come across yet. I’m a fan of level 3. For extra help, read this. In terms of makeup, try Chanel’s Automatic Liquid Eyeliner, or Shiseido’s Accentuating Cream Eyeliner. The former is my favorite but takes some practice to apply; the latter comes with its own brush for precision and is totally smudge-free when you apply. Below, some pics to inspire you.

from top left: backstage at Louis Vuitton; Rihanna; fancy cat-eye — the white makes your eyes look bigger; the always-sexy Brigitte Bardot; a model backstage at Chanel; eye detail at Dior; simple, and; not-so-simple cat-eyes

look noir obscur

I have been feeling this look all winter long and it’s perfect for the holiday season. It’s sophisticated but super easy to pull off. Rouge Allure Lipstick in Hysteria, and any matte dark grey shadow all over the eye.

video art + lipstick lovers

“Here is a video to remind you that women eat about 7 lbs of lipstick in their lifetimes.” This video really hit the spot and reminded me of a random variety of subjects. Initially it reminded me about a chain email I received from a friend warning me about the lead content of lipstick. Although there is no hard evidence linking lipsticks that contain trace amounts of lead to cancer, this video does make you think twice about what you put on your mouth, on your skin, in your hair…

Although the commentators over at nymag do not seem to be fans of this video, I think it’s interesting. It’s provocative and not to be taken too seriously. The contrast of overtly sexual behavior with comedy and a touch of narcissism (always lurking around the edges of the beauty/fashion world) remind me a lot of a video art piece by my dear friend Antonia: Miroir, Miroir.

Miroir, Miroir is a humorous/haunting exploration of our culture’s (and her’s — she’s Brazilian) obsession with physical perfection. What’s that expression… we destroy that which we love? Paradoxically, the superficial medium of the makeup exploits the deeply embedded urge for perfection. The woman in the mirror is demure, then frenzied as she hurtles toward her id, refining her face past the point of perfection and into the obscene. I love the strong red and black carnal colors.

There is always a mocking smile, or the indifferent Asian women on the bus in the final scene to remind the viewer we’re supposed to laugh at ourselves. The artist’s beauty is ultimately what renders this video comic and not tragic; it is clear the woman in the video is ruining her face, not improving it, so we can laugh at her “makeup abuse.” But what if the artist was ugly? Would the desperation be ugly and full of pathos? Would the viewer be relieved that it was hiding what was underneath?

q+a

Q: How do I get the bold turquoise eye from the Gucci Spring 2009 show featured in your polished waves editorial? D. V., NY, NY

A: I have actually received a surprising amount of requests for this look considering how summery it is. Must be all those tropical vacations for the New Year! The look is definitely festive and sexy so I understand the allure. Leave it to Gucci to depict the quintessential bombshell whose look everyone wants to emulate. Despite all the how-to videos out there that demonstrate how to replicate this look in painstaking detail, I think the key to pulling it off in real life is subtlety. Keep the color close to the eye and don’t stray far from the lid. Instructions after the jump.

To get this strong turqoise eye, apply a concealer or primer to the entire lid so the color doesn’t smudge. My makeup-artist-on-call, Renato, recommended MAC and Urban Decay as having great quality and highly-pigmented eye shadows that are inexpensive and long-lasting. After the primer, apply a white eyeshadow, like MAC’s Unbasic White, to the tear ducts and on the outer lid. Don’t worry about applying too much, the white will eventually be blended in with the turquoise. Starting close to the lashline, apply a matte turquoise, like Urban Decay’s Narcotic, all over the surface of the lid. Do not go onto the brow line. Then, use a darker shade of teal (a good shimmery option is NARS Tropic, or to stay matte try Plumage) and blend on the outer area of the first color, going very slightly onto the brow and past the outer corner of the eyes.

Like any dramatic eye, blending is key, and the more colors you use the more textured the result will be. In the Gucci show, Pat McGrath used Max Factor’s Moody Mint vibrant green as a highlighter. You can also try MAC’s Mineralize Duo in Fresh Green Mix so the mixing is already done for you. Give structure to the look by swiping a black eyeshadow along the bottom outer lash, and lining the inner lids and top lashline with black eyeliner. Finish, obviously, with mascara. Like any bold eye, wear with nude lips and pale pink cheeks to keep it sophisticated.

above, models from Gucci SP09 and from top, NARS Tropic, MAC Fresh Green Mix, and Urban Decay Narcotic

photoshop your face, part III

Q: How do I get that “airbrushed look” without using cakey foundations? – T.T., NY, NY

A: I have already touched on one essential element for getting a photo-finish face — a great concealer — and for now that is enough for me on a day-to-day basis. My new concealer has been amazing at covering up any blemishes and under-eye circles. However, for perfect coverage — for an event, or if I knew I was going to be photographed — foundation is necessary. And since truly great foundation is another one of this things you just can’t skimp on, the only answer is Giorgio Armani’s Luminous Silk Foundation. This secret of this foundation is that it doesn’t just even out your complexion, it actually reflects light, making your face radiant and flawless. The makeup artist at Saks put on #4.5 all over my face and I thought it looked great; however, Renato told me to wait until I went outside (department store lighting can be testy) to make sure the shade was right for me. Sure enough, in the daylight my skin still looked good but the difference in color from my face to my neck was slightly visible: I was a #5. Next time you are picking a foundation make sure to remember this tip and save yourself a return visit to the makeup counter.

Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Foundation, $58

from the runway to anywhere

Models from Lanvin fresh off the runway on Stockholm Street Style. Some runway looks seem ridiculous on the street but these are so chic and can take you anywhere. The individual models have totally different personal styles and are rocking the look equally well.

magic wand

Actually, this wand isn’t that magical. Frankly I’m surprised no one has thought of this before. Regardless, Belvada’s Mascara Noir design is brilliant in its simplicity. It works just like a click-pen (is there a more sophisticated name?). The applicator clicks open for convenience (one-handed application); a cap is taken off and placed on the end of the tube, and the brush appears when you push the slide to the top. The design is such so that no air can enter through the container, keeping the mascara fresher for longer, and there is also a refined wiping system that claims to reduce clumps and wastage.

I am fascinated by cool packaging (simple minds, simple pleasures) and I am curious to see whether the mascara is effective design or just a gimmick.