the boys’ turn

Forgive me for being so late on the post action, but FW is sucking the life out of me and so are several other personal endeavors. That being said, while I know you all love to ogle the SI models, it’s time for the ladies who read this blog (ie everyone except for Dad, Boyfriend, and Brother) to get some eye candy. Last week I went to everyone’s favorite FW men’s event, CFDA and GQ’s Best New Menswear Designers in America 2010. GQ throws a great party, and this is pretty much the only event by men’s for men’s. Everyone gets to catch up, air-kiss, and watch models sweat their faces off on podiums under 100° lights in layered outfits fit for… a really fierce Arctic excursion.

The award was created to launch men’s rising stars and I think it’s important to help emerging designers get recognized and funded. But I’m sad to say these designs all look the same to me. There is no standout star and all the works being showcased are monotonous iterations of ideas thoroughly explored by the lumberjack hipsters of the world. I can appreciate some of the details — cozy shawl-collared sweaters, amazing carry-alls, and great functional boots — but really: who dresses like this? I have a rule. If Dad (classic) wouldn’t wear it, if Brother (fashion scavenger) wouldn’t wear it, if Boyfriend (avant-garde) wouldn’t wear it, and if The Boss (contemporary.. not that Boss) wouldn’t wear it – newsflash – no one should be wearing it. By now you may know that Billy Reid took the $50,000 prize, but with a permanent orientally-carpeted shop already ensconced in Bloomingdale’s, will it really make a difference? Below, some high/low lights of the awards.

i'm a model, idiot

Fairisle cardigan, pecs not included: You can’t really blame the models here; after all, they are just following orders. But this is a perfect example of what no man would ever wear. Props to Parker H. for holding it together so well; his nipples are definitely chafing, cuz lambswool is itchy as hell. The Caulfield Preparatory collection features plenty of chunky knits, tartans, brushed flannels, meltons, thermals, and wide-wale cords, all popular fabrics as menswear moves towards a layering and mixing of patterns and textures. I can get on board with the idea but I fail to see the appeal of overt schoolboy details and varsity letters. Caulfield Prep, you think you’re too cool for school… but you aren’t.

A coat I would like to cuddle up to: I think Unis’ Eunice Lee really nailed it with this moleskin double-breasted short peacoat. This coat epitomizes Fall 2010: functional but playful, modern, and above all well-designed. It’s a versatile piece that can be worn with any number of looks, although I do like what she has paired it with here (minus the neckerchief). I love Unis pants and the prices are not outrageous, so I’m thrilled to see she is getting support to take a more aggressive approach with her collection business. Girls in my office and my buyers will recognize our favorite showroom model, Ryan, cracking a smile despite his serious layers.

Ralph Lauren Redux: Above right are some looks from winner Billy Reid. I’m feeling the Newsies vibe (after typing that I have spent the last 20 minutes watching Newsies clips on YouTube… memories) but there is nothing sexy or interesting about these clothes. If you are wearing these and you are a non-model… your name is J. Douglas Perry and you are teaching me Literary Theory.

Shoes for thought: Boyfriend really liked these and I have to agree. Even though all the shoes are the same I am OK with it. I can dig an L.L. Bean boot or these Frye boots which my buddy Brett at Stylevolver recommends. I can also dig a nice Slip-On. Both are functional and not fussy. The desert boots are great and every man should own a pair; they are understated, go with pretty much everything, and it’s the best boot you can buy for $100. My mother and I have been trying to convince my younger brother to get a pair for the last two years; I thought we were making progress until he texted me last night to tell me he just “discovered” Gola shoes and Rock and Republic jeans. God help us. Why do the young folks insist on thinking Jersey Shore is cool? All the apathy and sarcasm of our generation has backfired in earnest with this bunch. In any case, I think I better go to sleep now. Peter Hidalgo tomorrow and I am SO EXCITED!

needs more mirrors

How could I overlook these? Party-ready mirrored Giuseppe Zanotti boots (modified by Luxirare) can be yours for the low price of $3840. Hey, it’s cheaper than lipo!

deal of the day

It’s officially Cyber Monday and deals abound. Case in point: these amazing Church’s Riding Boots 50% off at Net-A-Porter! Sadly my faves are still full price and almost sold out.

q & a

Q: I have decided my footwear buy for winter/fall is going to be a pair of black, knee high riding boots.  Can’t afford anything too expensive, under $200 (massive purchase for me).  I am hoping for something that is casual enough to wear with jeans, but nice enough to pair with a dress too.  Not really into many embezzlements right now — just something very classic. Ideas?! – A.M., United Kingdom

A: My darling frugal fashionista, no one is going to embezzle your boots away from you. I simply won’t let them. Now that we’ve got that cleared up.. it’s true. Not everyone wants motorcycle boots (but don’t tell my assistant that.. I think she is on her third pair). But this season, finding those timeless riding boots is going to be a trick, for a few reasons. Retailers are torn between selling basic product, which they have been trained to buy every year, and offering something novel to a schizophrenic customer that needs to be lured back into the stores. This has created a price-value divide in which the basic product that remains in the stores is luxurious and expensive (ie a Loro Piana cashmere sweater, a pair of Theory pants), and the trendy product is seen as more of a passing fad and priced as such. So finding something basic (riding boots), at a price (<$200) is a challenge.

So, where does this leave us? Never fear. With everything out there, you will not remain bootless. Aside from vintage shopping, which is definitely a good idea (isn’t London the land of amazing vintage riding boots? Get thee to Portobello Road!), I have narrowed my recommendations down to the top three pairs below. Note that I ruled out suede (not classic and not durable enough) and heels (not comfortable enough for around-the-clock wear) and any color other than black for versatility’s sake.

3. At $215, these Bagatt boots are a bit out of the price range, but I’m in love with the cowboy shape, the subtle details, and the snakeskin leather. They have a nice 1.2″ heel but may be a bit casual for dressier outfits. Vaguely reminiscent of these which I adore.

2. Steve Madden’s Inragee wedge boots are a great shape with a low 1.25″ heel and a gold zipper detail that is the faintest embellishment. They are sleek and versatile. And no one knocks them off like Madden — check out this look-alike pair which I actually like less because of the strap and weird light-colored heel.

1. Dolce Vita OTK boots, at $198, are my top pick. The 1″ heel will not leave you totally flat and the shape is the best one here. They are not too much taller than the knee and will look cute with jeans, shorts, a skirt, dress, whatever. They are clean, modern, and dressy but not fancy. Inexplicably, I found another pair for over $100 more from the same brand. Both are good-looking boots and I imagine they are not vastly different.

Good luck and let me know what you end up with!

hello moto

Surely you’ve seen them. Silver studs and buckles gleaming, sturdy heels clacking gratifyingly against the cobblestones, sublimely scuffed leather stark against juust the right amount of leg. In this corner, the odd fashion paradox: a must-have shoe that is wonderfully practical. For once, coveting the season’s accessoire de rigueur won’t make your toes numb. Incorporate a little rock chic into your wardrobe in a wearable, durable way. This started as a hunt for a friend moving to London who wanted a starter-boot and grew into a personal obsession; I am currently depending on last season’s tragically discontinued Theory boots to survive the winter. Below, my top recommendations for any budget/preference, whether you’re a card-carrying Hell’s Angel or still steeling your nerves to hop on your boyfriend’s Vespa.

1. Balmain Zipped Boots, $1,975 : Making your rock n’ roll fantasy a reality will cost you. But these will guarantee people will think you just walked out of Maxfield and not off of the Rock of Love bus.

2. Steve Madden Texic Boot, $150 : The byline doesn’t lie. Indeed, a pair of no-nonsense cowboy-inspired boots hasn’t ever hurt anybody. What you see is what you get, and at a great price point. A fine way to dip your toes into the trend noncommittally, Steve Madden shoes also tend to be decent quality and comfortable.

3. Sam Edelman Zoe Boot, $365 : This superwedge is actually a knock-off of a 2006 Balenciaga made famous by a certain well-heeled twin. The latest iteration lost a zero off the price tag and several inches of height but kept its edge and plenty of details. Diva win.

4. Opening Ceremony w10 Convertible Boot, $565 : Adaptable boots in a luxe shearling with beautiful lines. Yes and yes. Although I prefer them in their folded-down state – cleaner and with the fur showing – sensible shoppers will appreciate their flexibility.

5. Golden Goose Charlye Riding Boot, $1,250 : These stunning boots are planted firmly outside the realm of possibility for most of us but I couldn’t help but include them as the gold standard. The soft leather, subtle detailing, and unique color all contribute to the obvious luxury and heirloom potential. These boots are made for walking, which is a good thing considering you may have to forgo cabs for the rest of the season in order to pay for them. But from boots like this are flawless outfits born.

6. Rosegold Studded Foldover Ankle Boots, $275 : This crossover pair with a low, supportive heel is easy on your wallet and your feet. The embellishments are fun and simple and the color sets them apart. Even at the reasonable price of $275 (I know, I’m a jaded NYer, yay!), you might still shed one when they get ruined in the inevitable winter slush bar crawl.