meet the new gibson girls

Last week I wore my hair up in what I thought was a cute and subdued (and yes, poufy) manner. Forty-five minutes into dinner, my former boss’ 15-year-old daughter asked me whether I watched Jersey Shore, then coyly informed me that my hair looked just like a certain greasy Oompa Loompa’s. This is the second time in as many weeks that I have had to deal with otherwise literate and well-adjusted teenagers who seem to be getting their only fashion cues from MTV. I may not be able to convince Brother the Younger to wear straight-leg jeans (yet) but I am not giving up the pouf to the guidettes of the world.

Once upon a time, when a woman’s hair was known as her “crowning glory,” Charles Dana Gibson sketched what would ultimately be the first pin-up: the Gibson Girl. Fresh on the heels of Parisian hairdresser M. Marcel Grateau, whose heated wave iron would change women’s hair forever, Gibson sketched his feminine ideal with a tiny waist contrasted with upswept curled hair piled high. Besides being beautiful, the Gibson girl was at ease, fashionable, and an equal to man.

Ladies, this is how it’s done:

Clockwise from top left: Chanel-approved extensions and pouf; Miu Miu girls sporting half-up and braided pompadours; models at Elie Saab with Gibson Girl hair; fluffy and refined at Louis Vuitton; more Victorian throwback hair (and couture) at Christian Dior; Eva Mendes; poufs and tortoiseshell glasses at Michael Kors; candyfloss hair at Roberto Cavalli; love the hair, love the lips, love Kirsten Dunst as Marie Antoinette; structured updos at YSL.

cat-eyes for dummies

The most comprehensive article about how to get the perfect cat-eye (from Glamour) I’ve come across yet. I’m a fan of level 3. For extra help, read this. In terms of makeup, try Chanel’s Automatic Liquid Eyeliner, or Shiseido’s Accentuating Cream Eyeliner. The former is my favorite but takes some practice to apply; the latter comes with its own brush for precision and is totally smudge-free when you apply. Below, some pics to inspire you.

from top left: backstage at Louis Vuitton; Rihanna; fancy cat-eye — the white makes your eyes look bigger; the always-sexy Brigitte Bardot; a model backstage at Chanel; eye detail at Dior; simple, and; not-so-simple cat-eyes

oui oui vuit vuit

wyatt hough

People like Wyatt really make me wish I could draw. Below are some of his renditions of Miu Miu and Louis Vuitton SP10.

See more at http://wyatthough.wordpress.com/

dollface

Next season’s ultrafeminine lingerie details, bows, ruffles, and ballerina-inspired looks call for some equally girly makeup. I’d like to try out some of these at the gallery or maybe out one night to contrast with a more punkish outfit. From top left, red lips and pastel eyes at Viktor + Rolf; pink cheeks and frosted gloss at House of Holland; Pat McGrath created a doll-faced look with matte white shadow on the eyes, extra eyelashes with many layers of mascara at Louis Vuitton, while hairstylist Guido decorated enormous afro wigs inspired by Japanese Manga comics with girly bows; pearly white eyeshadow at Scognamiglio; MAC makeup artist James Kaliardos accentuated pink eyeshadow with grey liquid liner, fake lashes, and a peachy lip at the Ruffian show; Ruffian eye closeup; it’s all about Blythe doll eyes at Miu Miu, where Pat McGrath affixed falsies to top and bottom lashes; To get François Nars’ exaggerated eyes at Marc Jacobs: use a bright white eyeliner pencil to draw an inch-wide vertical strip from the lashline to the brow (a stage makeup trick from the ’70s that makes eyes look wider), then trace black liquid liner along the top and bottom lashlines, extending the lines beyond both the inner and outer corners; jewel tones and glossy aubergine lips at Issa; backstage at Miu Miu; cupcake cutouts at Viktor + Rolf; Coco Rocha photographed by Solve Sundsbo for Numero.