Tag Archives: makeup

elles @ centre pompidou

The title picture is misleading. This is not commentary on an article plucked from a beauty rag (however much I may love/read them) but an exploration of women and contemporary art as inspired by the exhibition Elles at the Centre Pompidou, which I had the pleasure of visiting earlier this month in Paris. (The clipped wing above is Prédelle [Rainbow Elbow] (2007) by Agnès Thurnauer. A predella is a painted panel, often the type seen in 13th-16th century Italian religious art. By using traditional oils and this dramatic display is Thurnauer commenting on beauty as religion? Comparing Elle to the bible? Shouldn’t she be using Vogue? I’m not really sure, because I didn’t bother to look up the purported meaning of this piece. Isn’t that the point of art?)

Elles, a retrospective of 20th century women artists across genres, really got me thinking about how women represent, manipulate, and display their bodies as art. I have explored the essential interconnectedness of art and beauty as well as the exploitation of the self for the sake of art. This provocative and comprehensive show made me want to revisit and expand some of the themes I investigated earlier. Luckily, the exhibition was incredibly well curated, chronologically and thematically, that it’s easy to see the emerging ideas.

THE ADVANTAGES OF BEING A WOMAN ARTIST

The exhibition was opened, boldly, with several works of art from the 1980s by the Guerrilla Girls, “feminist masked avengers” who expose sexism, racism, and corruption in the art world, politics, and media. These pieces set the tone for the rest of the exhibition so I have included them in all their glory for you to peruse. Tongue-in-cheek, humorous, and provocative, the reflections of the Guerilla Girls are carefully orchestrated facts which bring to light the inequality of the art world. An à propos opening to the show and will give you some things to ponder as you examine the art below.

BODY SLOGAN

This was one of the most interesting sections of the show for me, with all my concerns about beauty and the body. After centuries of being the subjects of art, women repossessed the image of the female form through the new mediums available. Not too many oils and watercolors here. Instead, artists like performance artist Marina Abramovic (whose retrospective, The Artist Is Present, is showing now at MoMA) and Orlan use video art and photography, which offers minute attention to detail, to show a different side of a woman’s body. Through their art, women can represent the body as fragile or eternal, sensual or remote, poetic or primitive. In the exploration of these corporeal dichotomies, a woman also has a unique advantage, as she is both the creator and subject of the art, and can use the depiction of the body to her ironical advantage.

Much of the commentary regarding this kind of corporeal feminist art (I hate to label it as feminist.. it should just be considered art) argues that women artists are free from the conventions of genre that can trap their male counterparts. I don’t really understand why, since to me art is something that defies boundaries and continually barrels forward, and the most exciting kind of art delightedly ignores stereotypes and protocol. I suppose the point is that I’m from a generation that doesn’t have to suffer convention, and I have these women to thank.

Above, stills from Marina Abramovic’s Art Must Be Beautiful…Artist Must Be Beautiful… (1975), which depicts an overwrought woman frantically coming her hair and face sloppily with two brushes, to the point where she is almost damaging her face. By deliberately creating an un-beautiful, almost perverse work, Abramovic is giving the viewer a glimpse of a fundamental problem that women artists face: not only the desire to produce beautiful work, but the culturally-imposed need for the artist herself to be beautiful as well. Sadly, this is one area in which our society has not made much progress (is biology to blame?). Yet, the recent work of my friend Antonia Dias Leite, Miroir Miroir, which I have reviewed on this site, is an evolved iteration of Abramovic’s work and can provide some insight. It’s another reminder of how far we have come: while Abramovic seems crazed and desperate, the tone of Dias Leite’s video is dark but much more confident: her obsession and disfigurement is her decision.

Orlan’s Le Baiser de l’Artiste (1977), in which the artist (who has used plastic surgery as performance art and currently has oddly alien-like implants in her forehead) created a slot machine out of her body; for 5 francs the user could get a kiss from the artist. Brings a whole new meaning to the idea of the Half-Hooker Economy. Does this mean Real Doll Montag can be considered performance art?

Finally, a selection of photographs from Gina Pane’s amazing series Azione Sentimentale [Romantic Action] (1973). Pane’s methodical documenting of her self-inflicted wounds is surreal and awesome. (Cutting off your ears is gross, anyway. Been there, done that.) Fashion/food blogger Luxirare often blows my mind with her creations, which are documented in a similar style to this piece — one, two, of my favorites — but I don’t want to give her any ideas.

THE ACTIVIST BODY

Clearly women have broken boundaries by redefining visual and theoretical categories, and many women artists have channeled their energy to social commentary (both intentionally and unwittingly). My favorite example from the exhibition was a piece that hit especially close to home. I won’t bore you with the details (maybe I will another time) but I read Eating Animals by Jonathan Safran Foer just prior to this trip. The book is a philosophical and factual analysis of the factory farming industry, and Safran Foer establishes universal definitions for words like pain, suffering, and animal — arguing that semantics and ignorance is largely what stands in the way of a planet of vegetarians. But I digress. The following work makes use of the artists body as well as the bodies of some of her fellow animals. Of her work below, artist Jana Sterbak said:

“I think [Vanitas] is quite a successful work, if I can put it like that, because it can be interpreted in many different ways, from the respect that we do not accord to animals we raise for our food needs, to our own aging and death, the rituals of possession and absorption, etc. Vanitas could also be about the way time changes our perception of works. On the day of the opening, when the dress is exhibited the flesh is raw. Then the meat dries and starts to look like leather. Then everything is better, it becomes acceptable. This is also true for artists. Some curators prefer to work with dead artists because they’re less troublesome.

A ROOM OF ONE’S OWN

With a title borrowed from Virginia Woolf’s book regarding the necessities of artistic production (in fact, I’m in a room of my own at this very moment, working away; and what a luxury it is), this section of the exhibition concerns private and public space, creation, and material arts. We have strayed a little bit away from the body, but we shall return to it. In the meantime, my all-women’s college education will not let me neglect this part of the show.

Above, Pink Diagonal (2002), by Ghada Amer, is a needlepoint work of a most curious sort. Amer sewed images of women taken from a pornographic magazine repeatedly onto a brightly colored canvas. She is, in her own words, “participating to the double submission of the woman, i.e. the woman sewing and the woman sewing her own distorted image!” Curious, indeed. The sewing technique is used to the extreme: in places, the thread almost looks like spilled ink because it has been sewn onto itself many times over. If she had drawn the images, I can imagine her digging her pen deep into the canvas, almost neurotically. My vision of such a neurotic artist contrasted with the smiling, seductive women of the image is sharp. A friend of mine, Olivia Wolfe, is a multi-talented artist, and some of my favorite works of hers are her sewn photographs.

Above, Fig. 8: Abdomen and Fig. 5: Apparatus for Movement in Human Body are just two examples above of sewn photographs, more of which (along with other amazing pieces) can be found on her website, Olivia Wolfe. The clinical titles of the art evoke doctors and surgery and serve to detach the viewer from the carnal elements. In Abdomen, homage is paid to plastic surgery, and it is unclear whether the mysterious hand (to whom does it belong? is it an apparition? an apparatus?) is sewing up the body or ripping out the stitches to reveal the fragile paper belly underneath. In Elles, a commenter remarked that “paper can well stand in for the skin: crumpled, pierced, glazed, or waxed, it evokes its textures and fragility.” Fragility and the question of control feature prominently in both pieces. I especially love that in the bottom picture, the mirror image of the woman is simultaneously the puppeteer and the puppet, dominant and submissive, naked and relaxed and naked on her knees.

IDENTITY

In any work of art representing the body, beauty, and stereotypes, questions of identity arise, and in much of the art in the exhibition the identity of woman is revealed in all its paradoxical glory. Defacements, blurrings, and other effects imbue bodies and faces with the power to repel, seduce, inspire dread, anxiety, or admiration. Yet however ironical a reflection of their conditions, many early contemporary women artists did not have the luxury of searching for answers. Instead, they laid bare their differences, endlessly questioned the work of appearance.

Two modern artists, Amelie Chabannes and Antonia Dias Leite, in their 2007 work My Portrait of Your Identity, evolve this idea by interrogating other subjects and (super)imposing their own art and animation onto these individuals, both men and women. (Click on image for video… do it.)

A question about the subject’s personality turns into a conversation (in which the subject speaks and the artist silently and invisibly renders) about a woman becoming a man becoming a cat. The title gets screwed up, My Portrait of Your Identity becomes Your Portrait of My Identity; an exploration about the subject’s personality becomes a universal exploration of the singularity and commonality of our collective identities. This new strategy of spontaneous narration is made possible, in some ways, by the ground work set forth by earlier artists who introduced the body to new relationships through these innovative mediums. My Portrait of Your Identity engages the collective memory, with all its imperfections and inventions, so that the act of viewing itself is an interactive experience, informed and evolved upon every viewing.

lace in the face

Dior‘s Spring 2010 may have you running to Bloomingdale’s to get your fix but Eric Traore has figured out a much better way to do it. Chanel needs to up the ante with their faux tattoos. These are making me wish for warmer weather and Marie Antoinette-style castle parties. Speaking of the Dauphine, I am feeling her inspiration in many aspects — that hair, the French-as-a-third-language thing, shoes, that Adam and the Ants song I can’t get out of my head, and now makeup. Hopefully I won’t find myself with my head on the proverbial chopping block at any point this year.

cat-eyes for dummies

The most comprehensive article about how to get the perfect cat-eye (from Glamour) I’ve come across yet. I’m a fan of level 3. For extra help, read this. In terms of makeup, try Chanel’s Automatic Liquid Eyeliner, or Shiseido’s Accentuating Cream Eyeliner. The former is my favorite but takes some practice to apply; the latter comes with its own brush for precision and is totally smudge-free when you apply. Below, some pics to inspire you.

from top left: backstage at Louis Vuitton; Rihanna; fancy cat-eye — the white makes your eyes look bigger; the always-sexy Brigitte Bardot; a model backstage at Chanel; eye detail at Dior; simple, and; not-so-simple cat-eyes

look noir obscur

I have been feeling this look all winter long and it’s perfect for the holiday season. It’s sophisticated but super easy to pull off. Rouge Allure Lipstick in Hysteria, and any matte dark grey shadow all over the eye.

q+a

Q: How do I get the bold turquoise eye from the Gucci Spring 2009 show featured in your polished waves editorial? D. V., NY, NY

A: I have actually received a surprising amount of requests for this look considering how summery it is. Must be all those tropical vacations for the New Year! The look is definitely festive and sexy so I understand the allure. Leave it to Gucci to depict the quintessential bombshell whose look everyone wants to emulate. Despite all the how-to videos out there that demonstrate how to replicate this look in painstaking detail, I think the key to pulling it off in real life is subtlety. Keep the color close to the eye and don’t stray far from the lid. Instructions after the jump.

To get this strong turqoise eye, apply a concealer or primer to the entire lid so the color doesn’t smudge. My makeup-artist-on-call, Renato, recommended MAC and Urban Decay as having great quality and highly-pigmented eye shadows that are inexpensive and long-lasting. After the primer, apply a white eyeshadow, like MAC’s Unbasic White, to the tear ducts and on the outer lid. Don’t worry about applying too much, the white will eventually be blended in with the turquoise. Starting close to the lashline, apply a matte turquoise, like Urban Decay’s Narcotic, all over the surface of the lid. Do not go onto the brow line. Then, use a darker shade of teal (a good shimmery option is NARS Tropic, or to stay matte try Plumage) and blend on the outer area of the first color, going very slightly onto the brow and past the outer corner of the eyes.

Like any dramatic eye, blending is key, and the more colors you use the more textured the result will be. In the Gucci show, Pat McGrath used Max Factor’s Moody Mint vibrant green as a highlighter. You can also try MAC’s Mineralize Duo in Fresh Green Mix so the mixing is already done for you. Give structure to the look by swiping a black eyeshadow along the bottom outer lash, and lining the inner lids and top lashline with black eyeliner. Finish, obviously, with mascara. Like any bold eye, wear with nude lips and pale pink cheeks to keep it sophisticated.

above, models from Gucci SP09 and from top, NARS Tropic, MAC Fresh Green Mix, and Urban Decay Narcotic

q+a

Q: My friend and I were talking the other day about make-up. She went to see a dermatologist recently after she developed a rash on her chin that wouldn’t go away with the normal face-washing regimen. Her dermatologist recommended she use only paraben-free make-up to keep it at bay. Do you have any tips who makes good paraben-free make-up? K.L, Boston, MA

A: This has been a question at the forefront of my mind recently after a rash (NO pun intended.. ok maybe a little) of office incidents that have left my coworkers and I troubled. My assistant had a problem last year with her eyes; specifically, that they were itchy and red with no apparent explanation. It turned out that one of the chemicals being used at her manicure salon was making her eyes irritated. Think that’s crazy? Another co-worker just discovered she had the same problem. There are chemicals and skin irritants all around us and our bodies can react mildly or violently in response.

Sephora has taken a dedicated approach to providing more natural and organic options for consumers. They have a specific definition for what “natural” and “organic” mean, which is outlined here. They even have a glossary so you can learn more about this side of cosmetics. Basically, product ranges containing 90% or more antioxidants, botanicals, essential oils, marine bioactives, vitamins, and minerals, and which exclude a minimum of 6 of the following 8 ingredients: GMOs (genetically modified organisms), parabens, petrochemicals, phthalates, sulfates, synthetic fragrances, synthetic dyes, and triclosan, can be defined as natural/organic. Some natural brands that I am familiar with which I enjoy are Korres (I use their Wild Rose 24-hr Moisturizer), and Caudalie, which are focused on skincare, and Tarte, which is primarily makeup. One of my friends swears by Bare Escentuals, which her mom gave her because she was always falling asleep in her makeup! It would be a good idea to go to Sephora with some products in mind and ask for some samples. If you explain your situation, I am sure a sales associate would be happy to help you try a few things out. If things backfire, they have a no-questions-asked return policy.

Since organic products can add up to a big purchase, it’s important to check out competitively-priced lines as well. I am a big believer in French drugstore brands, many of which are now available in stores like CVS stateside. La Roche-Posay is my favorite; I have used the Toleriane Dermo-Cleanser, the Rosaliac Gelee Makeup Remover, and the Anthelios sunscreen line. On the website there is a handy skin-type guide that recommends specific products. Another new cosmetics line out of Peabody, MA, Luxx Cosmetics, has great quality products in simple packaging with an online platform to minimize costs. More than half of their range is parabens-free and enriched with vitamins and minerals. I particularly like their eye shadows. If any readers have suggestions/experiences: share!

photoshop your face, part III

Q: How do I get that “airbrushed look” without using cakey foundations? – T.T., NY, NY

A: I have already touched on one essential element for getting a photo-finish face — a great concealer — and for now that is enough for me on a day-to-day basis. My new concealer has been amazing at covering up any blemishes and under-eye circles. However, for perfect coverage — for an event, or if I knew I was going to be photographed — foundation is necessary. And since truly great foundation is another one of this things you just can’t skimp on, the only answer is Giorgio Armani’s Luminous Silk Foundation. This secret of this foundation is that it doesn’t just even out your complexion, it actually reflects light, making your face radiant and flawless. The makeup artist at Saks put on #4.5 all over my face and I thought it looked great; however, Renato told me to wait until I went outside (department store lighting can be testy) to make sure the shade was right for me. Sure enough, in the daylight my skin still looked good but the difference in color from my face to my neck was slightly visible: I was a #5. Next time you are picking a foundation make sure to remember this tip and save yourself a return visit to the makeup counter.

Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Foundation, $58

from the runway to anywhere

Models from Lanvin fresh off the runway on Stockholm Street Style. Some runway looks seem ridiculous on the street but these are so chic and can take you anywhere. The individual models have totally different personal styles and are rocking the look equally well.

magic wand

Actually, this wand isn’t that magical. Frankly I’m surprised no one has thought of this before. Regardless, Belvada’s Mascara Noir design is brilliant in its simplicity. It works just like a click-pen (is there a more sophisticated name?). The applicator clicks open for convenience (one-handed application); a cap is taken off and placed on the end of the tube, and the brush appears when you push the slide to the top. The design is such so that no air can enter through the container, keeping the mascara fresher for longer, and there is also a refined wiping system that claims to reduce clumps and wastage.

I am fascinated by cool packaging (simple minds, simple pleasures) and I am curious to see whether the mascara is effective design or just a gimmick.

dollface

Next season’s ultrafeminine lingerie details, bows, ruffles, and ballerina-inspired looks call for some equally girly makeup. I’d like to try out some of these at the gallery or maybe out one night to contrast with a more punkish outfit. From top left, red lips and pastel eyes at Viktor + Rolf; pink cheeks and frosted gloss at House of Holland; Pat McGrath created a doll-faced look with matte white shadow on the eyes, extra eyelashes with many layers of mascara at Louis Vuitton, while hairstylist Guido decorated enormous afro wigs inspired by Japanese Manga comics with girly bows; pearly white eyeshadow at Scognamiglio; MAC makeup artist James Kaliardos accentuated pink eyeshadow with grey liquid liner, fake lashes, and a peachy lip at the Ruffian show; Ruffian eye closeup; it’s all about Blythe doll eyes at Miu Miu, where Pat McGrath affixed falsies to top and bottom lashes; To get François Nars’ exaggerated eyes at Marc Jacobs: use a bright white eyeliner pencil to draw an inch-wide vertical strip from the lashline to the brow (a stage makeup trick from the ’70s that makes eyes look wider), then trace black liquid liner along the top and bottom lashlines, extending the lines beyond both the inner and outer corners; jewel tones and glossy aubergine lips at Issa; backstage at Miu Miu; cupcake cutouts at Viktor + Rolf; Coco Rocha photographed by Solve Sundsbo for Numero.